The Battle of Manchego: Spain v. Mexico

Many countries have their own specialities. We're known here for our Dutch cheeses, like Gouda or Edam. Manufacturers can apply for European protection for their products. This protection falls into one of three sorts: the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and the Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG). A product file contains the standards a product must meet for each protected descriptor in order to be able to use that descriptor.

Manchego cheese is protected by a PDO in Spain. This cheese must be made from the milk of Manchega ewes and has to mature for at least one or two months, depending on the weight of the cheese. But Manchego cheese is also made in Mexico, albeit from cows' milk and with no minimum maturation period.

PDOs only offer European protection, in principle, but the Union regularly enters into trade agreements with other countries with a view to extending this protection. Negotiations with Mexico proved that Manchego cheese was a hot topic, and tempers flared. The Spanish are proud of their Manchego and fear for  the demise of their cheese if Mexico doesn't need to observe the rules of the PDO. The result? Mexico can call its cheese "Manchego" in the EU but on certain conditions: Mexican Manchego may only be made from cows' milk and the packaging must clearly state that the cheese has nothing to do with the protected Spanish Manchego. Farmers in Spain don't think this extra information is enough. Will consumers spot the difference between the two Manchegos? Won't they just avoid the cheese altogether? We'll have to wait and see, but this again shows how important it is for consumers to read product labels carefully!

Fleur Jeukens